Lipstick Prophets FASHION PRODUCTION HOUSE

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June 8, 2018 This business is BONKERS

1620945194 ce7d1b98cc 224x300 This business is BONKERS

For new designers the allure of the glamours, the champagne, the creativity etc. that seemingly will be in store for you is quickly dashed by the realities of development and production. Fabric misbehaves. Minimum yardage isn’t met. The sweep doesn’t fit on the cuttable width.. should we add a seam? Why is this fabric roll different than that fabric roll. UGH.
My best advice to all new designers is to act like a seasoned one… meaning… roll with the punches. Yes, they sting but there are limitations to your visions. It’s called reality. Fabrics fight with each other. Bias ripples. Bias stretches, Zippers are too heavy for fabric choice.  Don’t fight with science. And you are NOT going to reinvent the wheel (no matter how brilliant you are, darling).
One of my favorite stories is when I had a young intern who a very green new designer client hired to production manage. The intern came to me with his brilliant idea… “we are going to print the pattern pieces directly on the fabric so we don’t have to pay for a marker”. (they had a custom printed fabric) NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! fabric moves and the pattern pieces will be un sewable. PLUS you will never be able to ply out the fabric for production. “No” he insisted.. “this is brilliant”. What happened? The fabric was totally unusable. The pattern pieces were skewed and we couldn’t sew them together. Two green people not believing the advice of experts.
The lesson- if you hire an expert trust that they know what they are doing. You can’t compete with a combined 99 years of experience from a team who day in and day out trouble shoots problems. Also, if you make luxury items sew them with a team who are experts. Don’t put your 70 dollar a yard fabric in a factory that sews contemporary. You will be sorry. And so will your budget.
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October 7, 2016 Get compliant people!!

image 1024x615 Get compliant people!!
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Attention ATTENTION this really needs your attention! Anyone making garments in California needs to read the below press release from the Labor Commission:
What this means for you? As a designer… if you are making garments here in L.A. you MUST audit your contractors and make sure they NOT ONLY have their license but that they are also compliant with WC, payroll, etc!!!
Here at Lipstick Prophets we are compliant with our garment registration license and WC insurance!! Those dollars you might save with a cheaper contractor in reality gives you massive exposure to loosing everything. The task force will take away your garments and never give them back … don’t believe me? Please read below!
Don’t risk it … It’s not worth it.

 

NEWS RELEASE

News Release No.: 2016-91 Date: September 22, 2016

California Labor Commissioner Fines 18 Los Angeles Garment Manufacturers $682,344 for Labor Law Violations
Illegally manufactured garments valued at $155,457 confiscated

Los Angeles—Investigators from the California Labor Commissioner’s Office issued $682,344 in fines to 18 garment manufacturers and contractors in a two day enforcement operation in the Los Angeles area. The penalties included a total of $603,043 in fines and stop orders for six employers with no workers’ compensation insurance, and $42,300 in penalties issued to 14 businesses for garment registration violations. Investigators confiscated 85 bags of illegally manufactured garments with an estimated street value of $155,457 at nine of the businesses.

“Sweatshop operators threaten garment workers’ rights and undermine honest employers in the industry, making it difficult for legitimate garment businesses to stay in operation,” said Labor Commissioner Julie A. Su. “These illegal entities should take note: we will shine a light on the underground economy and those who contract with unregistered contractors will also be held accountable.”

The two day enforcement sweep began on September 7 and included 22 worksite inspections. The 18 garment businesses cited employ 296 workers. The Labor Commissioner’s office is pursuing wage theft investigations on those employers who also failed to pay proper wages under the California Labor Code.

The Garment Manufacturing Act of 1980 requires that all industry employers register with the Labor Commissioner and demonstrate adequate character, competency, and responsibility, including workers’ compensation insurance coverage. Garment manufacturers who contract with unregistered entities are automatically deemed joint employers of the workers in the contract facility. Clothing confiscated from illegal operations cannot be sold, and will be donated to a non-profit agency which will provide the items to homeless and domestic violence shelters in the Los Angeles area.

The Labor Commissioner also administers a special wage claim adjudication process for garment workers pursuant to California’s AB 633, passed in 1999. This law provides not only an expedited process for garment workers to file wage claims but also provides a wage guarantee where garment manufacturers are responsible for wage theft at their contractors’ facilities.

The Wage Theft is a Crime website was launched as part of a multilingual public awareness campaign in 2014 by the Department of Industrial Relations (DIR) and its

Labor Commissioner’s Office. The Wage Theft is a Crime campaign informs workers of their rights and employers of their responsibilities. Workers and employers with work- related questions may also contact DIR’s Call Center in English or Spanish at 844- LABOR-DIR (844-522-6734).

DIR protects and improves the health, safety and economic well-being of over 18 million wage earners, and helps their employers comply with state labor laws.

DIR’s Division of Labor Standards Enforcement (DLSE), also known as the Labor Commissioner’s Office, inspects workplaces for wage and hour violations, adjudicates wage claims, investigates retaliation complaints, issues licenses and registrations for businesses, enforces prevailing wage rates and apprenticeship standards in public works projects, and educates the public on labor laws.

Members of the press may contact Peter Melton or Paola Laverde at (510) 286-1161, and are encouraged to subscribe to get email alerts on DIR’s press releases or other departmental updates.

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The California Department of Industrial Relations, established in 1927, protects and improves the health, safety, and economic well-being of over 18 million wage earners, and helps their employers comply with state labor laws. DIR is housed within the Labor & Workforce Development Agency. For general inquiries, contact DIR’s Communications Call Center at 844-LABOR-DIR (844-522-6734) for help in locating the appropriate division or program in our department.

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March 31, 2016 Getting Ready for your production.

30027997 Иллюстрация старинные шитья стиле и портного этикетке 300x300 Getting Ready for your production.As we embark on a new production season the team here at Lipstick Prophets wants to assist you in making a smooth pre production handover.

A few things to remember for Pre production:

- The best yield is the “true yield” which we have when we get your marker back from the grader.  Get your production ready by ordering the correct amount of fabric! Request your markers as soon as you close sales.

-When requesting your Markers please include fabric widths. (keep in mind we will need the “cuttable” width after any shrinkage)

-After you have your true yields, when calculating your fabric order, be sure to increase by at least 15% – if we run out of fabric you will be charged a table fee- but more importantly you will not be able to ship to your stores complete (thus loosing money!)

- Check those pattern cards for trims! Zippers, buttons, seam tape, boning, hook and eyes, elastic … your garments have trims and we need them up front! Also remember to increase by 15% for damage/end of roll/etc.

-Order your labels - content, size, and main- we need these up front before we start so we can attach them correctly without bottlenecking the system. Also any hang tags and button bags.. we need ALL of this to prepare your production.

- Order your hangers/ bags/ boxes etc. We also need these up front so there are no delays!

-Be aware of extra charges such as block fusing and pre steaming fabric.

-Be aware your fabric could possibly shrink when pre steaming or fusing.

-Think about any hand finishing that might increase the cost of your garment. You have already done costing at this point and any changes will effect the cost.

-Be sure to do label placement for EVERY garment. Main label, content, size, hang tags, extra button, etc.

With this list checked off you will be 100% ready for PRODUCTION and your season is in the best shape possible.

 

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May 25, 2014 China vs USA

NHE 16684 300 China vs USA

Why is China the place to go for American designers for contracting their manufacturing?  Several factors. 1st is the average Minimum wage for per worker is $1.19 per hour.  Here in L.A. minimum wage is 9.00 per hr (starting July 1).   To break it down the cost of something.. lets say a dress that takes a worker 8 hrs to make.. labor costs: CHINA $9.52 and USA $72.00.  PLUS in L.A. there are laws , payroll tax, workers compensation insurance, EDD, etc. which add up to 40% above the minimum wage for the business to pay out.  This is reason #1- another factor is machinery.  In China it is quite normal for a factory to have “fully automated” machines- a much rarer occurrence here.  Basically you feed the fabric into one end, and it cuts and sews it up without labor.  So, a person with no skill or talent can run the machine.  Because it is time-consuming and difficult to set the machine up for each size and pattern this why minimums are so high in China.
When a new client reaches out to us here at Lipstick Prophets and the phrase “we want to move our production back to the USA from China”  it feels like such a victory for the USA but then immediately I start to feel the panic of knowing they will be paying 800% more to produce here- are they willing to take this hit?
Fashion is art but it is also a business, higher profit margins = bigger success.  And the good ‘ol USA consumer is just that.. a consume – er.  Buying more and more for cheaper and cheaper without thinking of the impact on what that does here at home. Just consuming.  Yes made in America is more expensive… BUT, you if you live here… please consider buying from HERE.  Help the economy. Have some pride.  And let’s thank the manufacturers (Designers) who choose to spend the extra money from THEIR profits to create their garments here in the USA.

 

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June 9, 2013 TO CONTINUE THE CONVERSATION …

image 300x180 TO CONTINUE THE CONVERSATION ... For the past 7 years I have dug my high heels deep into the barren American ground proudly shouting “Made USA” as the only way.  We have watched as our government argues with it’s self, and big business ships production overseas forcing American factories shut down. FINALLY I am beginning to see a shift – the fashion industry is sticking out it’s precious toe to test the American water.  The conversation has begun,…what will it look like if Made in China becomes Made in America? Are YOU willing to pay a little more for something that is made here?  What does Made in America mean to you? And here is my question to ME… why did I just pay 180.00 for a shirt made in China?  That’s right… my self righteous ass saw the must have and IGNORED that disgusting MADE IN CHINA label.  SO why did I do it? Because I wanted it.  I liked it. It’s the same reason I eat eggplant even though I am allergic to it.. Enjoy now.. ignore the consequences. So now I ask, if even a die hard bleeding heart “American made” flag waver such as myself can have such a cavalier attitude when it comes to the “cuteness factor” how do we change the minds of the masses who don’t give a shit to begin with? It starts with the designers.  The more designers bringing production and development back to the good ‘ol U.S of A the less the consumers will be tempted. But we consumers must dial it in too.  Let’s all make a promise, the next garment we purchase will be made in America.. who’s with me? Anyone…. Anyone…

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January 12, 2013 WHEN YOU ROCK AND ROLL WITH ME… THERE’S NOONE ELSE I’D RATHER BE

You can’t mention fashion and rock and roll in the same sentence without David Bowie’s presence chilling your core.  And, no better time than this week when David dropped on us his new song and video for “WHERE ARE WE NOW” Take note. THIS is how you do it. And by “it” I mean everything.

x

Ali

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November 19, 2012 I wanna be an Antonio Girl

I can’t believe NY fashion week was almost 2 MONTHS ago, and what a treat it was for me to accompany Roxanne Lowit and Susan Baraz to the opening of “Antonio’s World”.  The Suzanne Geiss gallery was transformed into a an Antonio Lopez land of fashion illustrations and Polaroids just scratching the surface of his prolific body of work. His influence is still strong and his talent has yet to be rivaled.

You can’t help but notice the strong hold he still has on fashion today as models such as Lara Stone are bleached/dyed and posed to look just like an Antonio girl!

Don’t forget to notice the letter from Karl Lagerfeld!

x

AliIMG 20120906 00490 1024x768 I wanna be an Antonio GirlIMG 20120906 00494 1024x768 I wanna be an Antonio Girl

 

IMG 20120906 00497 1024x768 I wanna be an Antonio Girl

IMG 20120906 00496 1024x768 I wanna be an Antonio Girl

 

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September 5, 2012 Another NYFW has me bloggin’ again

Well, it’s surely no shock to anyone who reads the LP blog ( hi Mom) that I preeeeetttyyyy much only blog during NYFW.  How lame.

 

But, that being said, another fashion week is upon us and I am in flight bored out of my skull ready to (as many of the bored do) tackle social media.

So, follow me  on twitter @alibibarone if you want to see backstage photos and 1st looks from my favorite designers. Also prepare for my dry commentary regarding the rude, affected, and ridiculous.

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March 18, 2012 Georgina Chapman… MVP

I am just going to go ahead and say it… Georgina Chapman (designer of Marchesa and wife of Harvey Weinstein) is officially my girl crush!  I assisted Roxanne Lowit on a photo story chronicling her moves before and day of the 2012 Oscars.  I watched as she elegantly fit Stacy Keibler in her Marchesa gown.  She was gracious and gorgeous. Well spoken and polite.  On day 2 I steamed her Amaze-balls dress and helped her pick which clutch to wear for the carpet. She captivates the room so quietly.  So this is my gushing love letter to my new hero.  Do you see what I see?

x

Ali

georgie chap Georgina Chapman... MVP

Georgina Chapman Georgina Chapman... MVP

Georgina Chapman1 Georgina Chapman... MVP

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March 7, 2012 L.A.M.B

We arrived so early to the L.A.M.B presentation we actually spent more time hanging out BEFORE the start than for the actual main event!!  It was that 1960′s feel we all know so well.  Models wore a bump (nearly a bee-hive) and posed before a collage of Twiggy and Edie clad images reminiscent of Worhol’s hayday. SNORE.  Don’t get me wrong… I LOVE those images. The inspiration is unarguable ,but, this was SO phoned in. Gwen didn’t even show up.  The 3rd model came out before the music even started.  VERY unprofessional. We left before the 6th look.

IMG 20120211 00246 L.A.M.B

But dont Roxanne and I look CUTE!!

 

Screen shot 2012 03 04 at 11.45.30 AM L.A.M.B

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